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Bocks are Back!

It's time to put down the stouts and pick up an artisan brew fit for spring.

Sunday Apr 06, 2008.     By K. Tighe

Bars + Clubs Feed

Well that was fun. My first Chicago winter wasn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be—but why the hell did it have to last so long?

Six months of darkness, bitter cold, lackluster produce and enough stouts to take the edge off of it all are finally coming to an end. Birds are chirping, the sun is shining and the bocks are here! Every season has its specialty beers, but there's something about springtime that ups the craftiness (and alcohol content) of these rebel artisan breweries.

Dogfish Aprihop at Hopleaf
Dogfish does weird seasonals remarkably well, gathering groupies for its fall Punkin Ale, winter Chicory Stout and summertime Festina Peche (yeah, as in with peaches). But it's the unlikely taste of Aprihop that really dazzles.

Made from fresh apricots, this award-winning seasonal from Delaware's craft brewery, wipes all traces of winter away, thanks in part to its seven-percent alcohol by volume. The medium-bodied concoction is heavy on grassy hops, with touches of caramel malt and just enough apricot to bring up the rear. Widely considered by hop-connoisseurs to be more of a comment on fruit beer than an actual fruit beer, Aprihop's annual release is a major event for the entire beer community. Hopleaf will pour this elusive nectar ($5) for the duration of April.

Three Floyd's Rabbid Rabbit Saison at Map Room
Truly the beer of the working man, saisons originated in Belgium as a way to hydrate farm workers during harvest seasons. Brewed during the winter, the beer would be consumed en masse during the dog days of summer. Back then, saisons had low alcohol contents to keep from inebriating the farmhands, who were entitled to five liters of it daily. The brewing process, which is remarkably similar to red wine fermentation, was endangered in the beer world for quite some time, but in recent years has become a pet-project of artesian beer makers in the U.S.

Three Floyd's Rabbid Rabbit ($5.50), a very sweet nectar, packs an aromatic wallop—a debt owed to the spicy medley of coriander and orange peel. Map Room serves the mellow-orange brew in a 12-ounce goblet. Its deceptively light-bodied profile belies the whopping nine-percent ABV, a number that would have led to some mighty incapacitated farmhands back in the day.

Anchor-Bock at Sheffield's
With the sun finally shining, you're probably ready to trade in the stouts for some delicate little brew, but don't overlook the dark stuff just yet. One of the season's best bets is bock, a strong beer that provided sustenance (and, we imagine, some entertainment) to German monks during Lent. A springtime staple for centuries, bocks are essentially very potent lagers that have their roots in the German town of Einbeck, but owe their malted flavors to Munich.

Anchor Steam's yearly bock, on tap at Sheffield's ($5), owes its unique personality to San Francisco. The most liberal city in the country isn't exactly known for being traditional, but its favorite brewery does things the old-fashioned way, brewing this special batch virtually by hand. Sporting a rich tobacco hue, this barely carbonated bock comes in a pint glass with a frothy head that won't quit. At five-and-a-half-percent ABV, it has a huge profile; sweet malty notes of caramel and chocolate decorate the big, full-bodied hops for a deep and complex take.

Capitol Blonde Dopplebock at Clark St. Ale House
This springtime favorite has won awards from the World Beer Cup, The World Beer Championships, The North American Brewer's Association and the U.S. Beer Tasting Championship. So what does that mean, exactly? That a lot of beer snobs swoon for it—and with good reason.

Doppelbocks were also once the Lenten staples of German monks, who referred to the stuff as "liquid bread." While most doppelbocks range in color from dark to coffee-black, with the roasted notes to match, Capitol's dirty-blonde take tones down the intensity. The opaque golden brew comes with a full, rocky head and generous carbonation for a refreshing warm-weather sip. Try the Munich-style doppelbock, which has nearly seven-percent ABV, for yourself at the Clark St. Ale House for six bucks. Heavy hands of caramel, vanilla, toffee and honey malts comprise the majority of its big personality, with a slight spray of green hops and fruit trailing behind.

Goose Island Maibock at Goose Island Brewery and Goose Island Wrigleyville
Oh Chicago, please accept this humble apology. During my last guide to seasonal beer, I caught a ton of flak for not including Goose Island. This was no slight; I love the Goose and smile whenever I see a Santa hat- or lederhosen-wearing goose on a label. It's just that I assumed that everyone already knew where to get their Honkers on. I apologize and present you with the remarkable, amazing and incredible Goose Island Maibock ($5).

This baby was brewed in March, aged for six weeks and can only be found on tap at both GI locations (or they'll fix you up with a half-gallon carry-out). The beautiful golden hue of this German-style lager is honey-like; the strong taste comes from a masterful medley of malts; and the alcohol content settles right around a pleasant seven percent. A great transition from heavy winter brews to your 312s, this one's worth repeat visits. I even gave brewer Will Turner a call to get his recommendations on what to pair it with. He drinks his with spicy Mexican or Indian fare.