If Liza Minnelli were still donning green nail polish and fishnet stockings, Cyrano's on the River would be her joint. After belting out sultry tunes and seductive moves at Cyrano's cabaret in River North, Ms. Minnelli would head to the restaurant's sister locale for a well-executed French martini. She might even nibble on one of the cafe's fresh Nicoise salads, but it would be hard to choose just one of Chef Didier Durand's regional delights.

From aperitifs and appetizers to digestifs and desserts, Chef Durand takes great care with his pairings and preparations. Maybe it's because he's been cooking professionally for more than 20 years, or perhaps it's his Bergerac roots. In any case, Durand puts just as much effort forth at his new Riverwalk cafe as he does in his main French bistro and cabaret.

The menu here is a reflection of its parent restaurant, with an emphasis on lighter fare, more suitable for a hot Chicago day. Durand's cafe menu highlights French classics like pate and chicken liver, duck foie gras, duck confit and the popular Nicoise salad.

Centerstage Reviewer: Stacy Warden