There's nothing like eating great pizza underneath train tracks. Nestled below the Granville Red Line stop, the weathered facade of Gino's North can be quite daunting to newcomers. Appearances, however can be deceiving; what at first glance seems to be a run-down dive bar is actually one of the North Side's best kept secrets. The interior gracefully carries a Scorsese-meets-mid-century Chicago vibe, a distinctive charm that has made lifers out of many patrons. Evidence of this phenomenon can be seen in the half-dozen regulars bellied up to the bar on any given day. That grand Deco bar occupies half of the room, and four cozy booths with checkered table-cloths fill in the rest. Rest assured that there is no faux graffiti covering the walls, nor does Gino's North have any association with anything that's ever been in your grocer's freezer. The schtick here is pizza, plain and simple. Behind the bar are the Gino's ladies—George and Peggy—two women with rock-hard work ethics who take your order, pour your drink and make your pizza. Despite the fierce loyalty that Gino's has developed, all newcomers are welcomed with lively conversation, heavy-handed drinks and stellar food. The limited menu offers a simple take on deep dish, a thin crust that rivals any pie in Chicago, and prices low enough to make sense of the cash-only policy here.

Quaint in its authenticity, Gino's North is one of a dying breed—a neighborhood joint that serves up a damned good pie and keeps the Old Style coming.

Centerstage Reviewer: K. Tighe