There was a time when scoring a seat at the Pump Room's notoriously hard-to-book Booth One was akin to a mention of your name on the E! Channel. Photographs of glitzy folk who have sipped martinis at the Ambassador East's swanky restaurant form a wall of fame near the bar; everyone from Bette Davis to Humphrey Bogart has sashayed through the place. Today, the A-listers have found other VIP rooms to roost in, but the pomp of the Pump remains: Expect glittering chandeliers, tuxedoed wait staff and lavish spreads of porcelain at each table.

Chef John Geschrei's menu features a roster of unusual and gussied-up fare. Order a la carte or commit to an evening of tasting: courses range from three to 11 in number and include off-the-beaten-flavor entrees. Look out for special combination plates that dish up meaty pairings like New York strip steak and butter-poached lobster with carrot-truffle gnocchi and apple butter. For the vegetarians in the house, meat-free dishes have included a Lady Apple salad with golden raisin pesto, Wisconsin brie and warm salt caramel vinaigrette. Without liquor (though the signature martini list is mighty hard to pass up) the average cost per person falls into the $30 range, with most entrees ringing in at $25 and up.

A few things to note: Though a jacket is no longer required, jeans, sneakers and baseball caps must stay at home. To jazz up your Pump Room experience, stop by on Friday and Saturday for live, cover-free concerts beginning at 8 p.m. As always, reservations are highly recommended.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jennifer Berg