Veer slightly off of Sheridan Road and you're in for a surprise: classy RoPa Restaurant and Wine Bar, housed in the former Cafe Suran space. On a tree-lined street of Pratt that offers a glimpse of Lake Michigan, this charming, classy joint raises the bar for this mixed pocket of Rogers Park.

Walk inside and you're greeted by a robust wooden concierge booth and a leather reservation book. First impression: swanky. With fine wooden tables, high ceilings and painted-white chandeliers, you'll feel more like you're dining in River North than on the North Side. RoPa's menu covers Greece and the Mediterranean, and vegetarian and meat options.

Naturally, expect to spend a little more on food. We're talkin' double digits, like $20-$30 for a full dinner and more with one of the many fine wine selections (this isn't the taqueria around the corner, after all). On the menu you'll find lamb, shrimp, scallops, mussels, skate wing and sirloin steak, and appetizers like artichoke dip, calamari or salads. Patrons go gaga for the house cheesecake, and also love the fine wine selection.

Oh, and did we mention that RoPa is an abbreviation for Roger's Park? Perhaps this restaurant will start a trend in the 'hood, completely reinventing it. Maybe.

Centerstage Reviewer: Alicia Eler