Nothing's too special about the interior of this family-run deli, which looks as though it was cobbled together from a restaurant, living room and kitchen. A bench loaded with newspapers and magazines lines one wall, and the odd piece of artwork hangs here and there. Tables are small, but sufficient for a quick lunch stop or a coffee.

The food is basic in presentation but robust in taste. The paninis and sandwiches come piled high with meat and thick-cut vegetables and are grilled to a delicious crisp. There's a usual range of specials, which offer half a sandwich, sub or panini, chips and a soda for between $5 and $6. You can also try a Buffalo chicken sandwich ($5.09) or wrap ($5.79) made from a spicy chicken-salad-like mix.

Precooked meals are available for takeout, and while the servings are big and the food is good, make sure not to leave without taking some time to chat. You'll deprive yourself of the deli's best feature, its owner. He's friendly and willing to suggest substitutions if he's out of something or if a patron's diet has special needs. He'll spend time getting to know you, and he'll share stories about his family. Should you frequent the deli, it's likely he'll remember your favorite sandwich or what's been going on in your life. And he might just alter the policy of no credit cards on a bill less than $10.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kent Green