This family-owned, Italian restaurant and lounge opened in 1952 to serve hungry workers in the Warehouse District. More than 50 years later, Club Lago hasn't changed much (the space still boasts the original bar, tin ceiling and terrazzo floor) despite its completely revamped surrounding neighborhood. Nowadays you're more apt to find a chic gallery or upscale eatery than the likes of retro Club Lago in River North; the Club, however, doesn't seem to notice and continues at the same pace, serving great Italian food—and the neighbors keeps coming back for seconds.

Italian dining with a nautical theme may seem unusual, but at a place named Club Lago it's only natural ("lago" is Italian for lake). Sailboats float along the walls, and life preservers, lighthouses and captain's wheels decorate the space. You can't miss the giant, wooded sailboat perched atop a booth, boldly declaring the separation between lounge and restaurant.

Beyond the maritime montage, there are a few things about Club Lago that are traditionally Italian: The name, the red and white checkered table cloths, the friendly service and, oh yeah, the food. Featuring daily specials for both lunch and dinner, workers and residents file in under the large Club Lago marquee for a sociable meal or after-work drinks and appetizers. Start off with a carafe of wine, baked clams served on the half-shell or fried calamari, then move on to the variety of veal, pasta, salads and paninis that are served in portions sure to stuff you to the gills.

Centerstage Reviewer: Albrey Nuss