Cornelia's accomplishes the seemingly impossible. It brings a calm, rustic atmosphere right into the heart of chaotic Boys' Town, and makes it work. The vine and birdhouse-adorned exterior, shaded by a huge birch tree that hangs over charming patio seating in the summer months, is just the beginning of the roosterant's charms. Inside, grayish, barn-like wood paneling, an antler chandelier and loads of countrified touches create the kind of candle-lit homeiness we urbanites crave from time to time.

Imaginative pairings of flavor, texture and color are the house specialty at Cornelia's, nowhere more obviously than in the quirky shitake mushroom pancakes appetizer, spread with sun-dried tomato butter and drizzled with sweet balsamic syrup. Cornelia's is best known for its pork chops, and one bite will explain why. Tangy dijon mustard complements the tender meat, while a heap of sinfully rich sour cream mashed potatoes studded with sweet corn rounds out the flavor spectrum. Mama couldn't do better.

The Antalya salad, tender spinach tossed with pine nuts, crispy pancetta, dried apricots, asiago and a tarragon viniagrette, strikes that gorgeous, magical balance between sweet, salty, savory and crunchy. The daring fish-lover should try the Ikan Bumbu Kekap (just saying it requires an adventurous tongue), an Indonesian-influenced tilapia dish combining lemongrass, brown sugar, raisins, tomatoes and soy sauce, served over asparagus risotto. If you still have room, dessert will not disappoint: The bread pudding with raisins and warm caramel sauce and the cocoa-dusted tiramisu are moan-worthy.

Superb though the food is, it would be remiss not to mention the equally innovative things happening behind the bar. Cornelia's infuses its own vodkas with natural flavors ranging from black cherry to ginger to cucumber. Ask for a martini recommendation from any of the friendly servers, or simply order a cucumber vodka martini with bleu cheese stuffed olives. Like so many of the daring combinations Cornelia's pulls together, it's surprisingly perfect.

Centerstage Reviewer: Emilie Zanger