As advertised, Fulton's does indeed claim a spectacular spot on the Chicago River. Mix the superior downtown-views with subtle and elegant decor and you've got a spot perfect for out-of-town guests, business meetings or dates that need some serious wining and dining.

Start the evening with a cocktail from a list of signature concoctions (most $10-$12). City-pride shows in the LaSalle Martini, a punchy blend of Absolut Vanilla shaken with pineapple and lime juice (and, also in keeping with Chicago, chilled.) If you're a drink-your-dessert type, save the raspberry-garnished Key Lime Pie Martini for an after-dinner treat. The wine list features picks from Napa to New Zealand.

Soak up the stiff stuff with unique appetizers (about $10-$14) like deviled eggs fancied-up with Osetra caviar and white truffle oil drizzle. The pastrami-smoked salmon, served on toasted rye with sour cream and capers, will make any New Yorker feel at home.

As entree time approaches, diners who are under-whelmed by meat fare well with entree salads like the seafood cobb, bursting with scallops, shrimp, fresh crab, avocado and bleu cheese. But for those who brake for beef, Fulton's USDA Prime steaks and chops ($18-$43) are a real treat. With choices ranging from bone-in rib-eye to Porterhouse, steak-hounds will have much to salivate over. An extensive raw bar and sushi selection add a hip depth to the menu with hamachi nigiri, spicy salmon rolls and oysters in the Fanny Bay and Kumamoto families, among others. Don't bypass dessert; Chicago Magazine's dining editor raved that the old-fashioned peanut butter pie put her into a food coma.

Centerstage Reviewer: Jennifer Berg