Ken Hechtman, the gregarious, well-worn owner of Ken's Diner in Skokie, often waxes introspective during busy moments at his eatery's rowdy dinner rush. "It all comes from in here," he tells people pointing discreetly at his heart. And he ain't lying, Ken's Diner has truly been a labor of love for the suburban businessman whose outstanding burgers have been a Skokie institution for almost 30 years. Crowds flock to the cramped kosher restaurant for the royally marbled beef sandwich and gently spiced cuts of chicken he and his rowdy crew of baggers and cashiers dish at breakneck speeds.
Decked out like a Dick Clark nightmare, Ken's Diner comes alive with classic '50s era posters and paraphernalia hanging from whitewash walls. Deep, glittery booths jut over the classic black and white-checkered floor while doo-wop tunes boom from the stereo. A long white counter winds its way along the restaurant's outer edge and chatty carnivores tread patiently around its side. Ken's doesn't have a large menu posted, so one must order quickly from the take-out menu pasted to the front of the cash register. No worries though; the mostly local crowd knows when someone is new and usually waits good-naturedly until an order is placed.
Ken's most famous creation is the "burger buddy," a half-pound burger topped with lettuce, tomatoes, pickles and grilled onions. Toss in some fries and drink and it's yours for $7.99. The aptly titled, "Bay-Ken" mushroom burgers piles the 'shrooms over a patty and beef frye. Ken's also serves a delectable bison burger and one of the moistest, tastiest veggie burgers around. Perfectly spiced and served with BBQ sauce, it's as good as anything one might find at strictly vegetarian restaurants.
Sandwiches (most around $8) seem to play second fiddle to the burgers at Ken's, but it's a mystery as to why. In a nod to Ken's Jewish clientele, "The Avi," a breaded chicken sandwich served on Kaiser roll, serves as something of a schnitzel substitute for those searching for Eastern European glory in the suburbs. The spicy, "Red October" chicken sandwich is served on French garlic bread with mustard, mayo and tangy Italian garnish. It comes with steak fries so thick one might need several containers of ketchup to soak even a one. For the beef lover, there's "The Dempster," thinly sliced roast beef over French bread with fries.
Desserts like the brownie and large chocolate chip cookie are perfunctory, but when paired with a scoop of non-dairy ice cream (it's much better than it sounds) it makes for a sweet finale to Ken's rather salty entrees. Ken's is a double restaurant, connected to Bugsy's Charhouse, and both sides of this kosher restaurant serve meat.
Centerstage Reviewer: Adam White
