If you're not a rabid foodie or from China, Lao Sze Chuan's wait staff will try mightily to steer you clear of the crispy organ meat and tongue sizzling hot pots that are the specialty here. Persevere, however, and you'll be rewarded with some of the most stomach-satisfying Chinese fare west of the Yangtze River. Sliced beef and maw (tendon) Szechuan style, thin slices of moist marinated beef tossed with chilis, diagonally cut shards of scallion and ribbony leaves of cilantro, and chili-marinated ma po tofu drizzled with fermented black bean are just a couple of can't-miss examples.

Chef Tony Hu's salmon-hued dining room, decked out with a conglomeration of Chinese folk art and paper lanterns, features more than just fear factor food. Toothsome hunks of Szechuan-spiced rabbit, dusted with Chinese five-spice powder and perfumed with Star Anise and clove, then paired with crisp scallions and flecked with red pepper, will satisfy even the most squeamish palate. If you're still not sure, classics here like moo shu pork, Mongolian beef, spring rolls, and pot stickers are still a better choice than chain Chinese. Appetizers: $2.50-$5.95; Entrees:$5.95-$25.95.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant