The hearty Ukrainian buffet that Old L'Viv serves six nights a week could easily become lethal if the dosage isn't properly monitored. It's delicious, yes, but even a single plateful of the rib-sticking fare will make you wonder if you'll fit out the door.

The borscht, served as a soup course, is a meal in itself, and following it up with an all-you-can-eat Eastern European bonanza is a real test of gustatory fortitude. From mashed potatoes in a creamy mushroom gravy to cheese blintzes and potato pancakes to chicken diced, fried and baked in every way imaginable, the compact buffet will more than fill you up. The entire meal costs just $8.50, leaving plenty of money in your pocket as you fall asleep in your car.

The small Ukrainian Village storefront that Old L'Viv occupies has a sign in both English and Russian, which suggests what you'll find inside. The tiny dining room houses a handful of tables that seat three or four and a small bar area with a few stools. The white walls are offset by reddish timbers, and the buffet area stretches down a small hallway, separated from the dining room. Don't expect to be coddled by your server—there's a distinct "there's the food, eat it" feel to the place, and the space gets eerily quiet if there aren't too many customers. But if you've got $10 and an empty stomach, there's probably no simpler place to turn that situation around.

Centerstage Reviewer: Mac McCormick