At first glance, Phil & Lou's is a swanky, upscale restaurant with paper lanterns lit so dimly you can barely read the menu, sprawling bamboo plants, a baby grand piano and warm, milk chocolaty tones in the dining room. With "swank" in mind, the prices seems overly reasonable, and the just-like-Mom-made menu is a lesson in comfort, a slightly confusing foil to the space itself.

Whatever its actual identity is, Phil & Lou's strives to offer comfort food at an affordable price. The baked lobster mac n' cheese, with orzo pasta and mascarpone and fontina cheeses, is an overly rich version of what you're used to ($17.95); perhaps in an attempt to not overwhelm you, the serving size doesn't approach what comes out of a Kraft box and might not even be worth a dozen forkfuls. The brown sugar brined pork chop, with green apples and onions, Idaho mashed potatoes and cider sauce, comes closer to what you'd want to pay for comfort food at a reasonable $14.50. For an even better deal, stay away from the a la carte entrees and go with a burger or sandwich, which come with coleslaw, pickles and hand cut fries for anywhere from $8.95 to $12.95.

Centerstage Reviewer: Laura Brown