For a city full of affluent lawyers, doctors and professionals, Oak Park has a surprising dearth of upscale restaurants. Philanders is one of the few spots in the progressive inner-ring suburb where you can score a plate of luxury. Located inside the Carleton hotel, its interior conjures a stately vintage elegance with leather banquettes, honey-color woods and black and white stone tile floors.

The food, like the decor, is classic. There are no foams or lasers in this kitchen that churns out a seafood-focused menu. Instead, anise perfumed bouillabaisse holds court with Oysters Rockefeller and Maryland crab cakes. Appetizers range from $4-$23, and entrees cost $22-$40.

Ironically, despite the classy vibe and haute food, the name of the restaurant comes from local legend Philander Barclay, a turn-of-the-century junky infamous for roving around on his bicycle and documenting the early history of Oak Park through his photography. Live jazz music fills the space on Tuesday-Saturday, and it boasts an award-winning wine list.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant