As most tacophiles know, some of the best Mexican fare comes from unassuming places like carts and the coolers of traveling tamale men. Taqueria El Chorrito takes the space of an old failed diner with a still-standing “Hamburger & Chili” marquee out front and seating for no more than 10.

But it works with what it has, which turns out to be a menu stocked with more than 100 options. Every standard is represented – quesadillas, tortas, tostadas and burritos, the whole lot, including a 7 a.m. breakfast menu. Though Chorrito is all about the oddities, like the cow head taco ($2), or the less intimidating “Nopalitos Navegantes,” eggs joined by cactus and green sauce ($6.50). And if that still is too adventurous, shoot for the pita bread taco ($3.75), a hot and chewy boost to a perfect blend of oil, cilantro, onions and your choice of meat.

With the advent of Touché, a neighboring 4 a.m. gay bar, and the Loyola after-hours set known to frequent, Chorrito has taken a few liberties with its prices as of late, like its burrito suizo pushing the $10 mark, but beggars can’t be choosers at 5 a.m. And the portions are worth it, anyhow.

Centerstage Reviewer: Gavin Paul