Featuring barren white walls, a handful of plastic laminate booths which channel fast food joints like KFC or McDonald’s circa 1984, and a bulletproof glassed in the take-out window, the interior of Turner’s is pretty, shall we say, stark.

The food here on the other hand is a downright religious experience, literally and figuratively. The spot is owned by Reverend James C. Turner and his wife Gloria, which ensures a built in congregational demographic. Gloria's mom, Murilee "Ms. J" Johnson, does all the cooking, and pretty much hews to the idea that God is in the details.

Touches, like adding sweet peaches to her coconut pudding, or ensuring the dumplings in chicken and dumplings still have integrity instead of disintegrating, are more high end than down home. Of course, there’s plenty of comfort fare here, including plank-like short ribs in peppery gravy, creamy beans five different ways, sweet sticky candied yams, and a gooey, bottomless mountain of macaroni and cheese.

Centerstage Reviewer: Michael Nagrant