Reinvented as U Lucky Dawg after seven decades as Fluky's, this West Ridge institution keeps doling out plump Vienna Beef tube steaks in the no-nonsense Chicago style. That's fresh off the grill topped with your choice of mustard, relish, grilled or raw onions, vegetables and hot peppers.

Carnivores can tear through a dozen meal combos that include turkey burgers, Italian beef and chicken tenders. Entrees, fries and drinks run $5-$8, and breakfast choices like pancakes, French toast and custom omelets are a bit cheaper. The impressive beverage selection includes red cream soda, the mysterious Green River and fresh-brewed lemonade and punch. Leave room and set aside a few bucks for its hand-dipped ice cream; choices range from reliable vanilla and chocolate chip to a psychedelic looking Superman, whose contents remain a mystery even to the staff.

The brown tile and plastic seat dining room is Hardee's meets small-town family establishment, with a couple of plasma TVs mounted in the corners. Your attention may wander to the murals of anthropomorphic hot dogs: driving an antique car, dining in a fancy restaurant, broiling on the beach. A Centipede video game and the Treasure Chest arcade game, where you steer a claw into a tub of prizes, make up a mini-carnival of after-dinner entertainment.

Centerstage Reviewer: Justin Sondak