People who travel down Lincoln Avenue might often pass House of Wah Sun in favor of one of the more inviting places in Lincoln Square. It's a mistake, albeit a forgivable one. The cramped parking lot and concrete exterior don't do much to entice random people, but once inside this traditional Chinese and Cantonese spot, they'll find a large, bright space with colorful murals evoking Asian scenes. And while the televisions facing the dining room seem like a curious addition, overall the restaurant's environs make for a friendly group dining experience.

With plentiful, inviting, large tables and booths, it seems a shame to eat here with just two people. In fact, House of Wah Sun encourages the opposite by offering group dinner menus for sizes from two ($27) to eight ($89). It serves lunch and dinner, and offers dishes in small or large portions (most cost $6 to $11). For a good start, try the egg rolls with a crispy exterior and flavorful vegetable filling for just $1.50. Though the dishes come doused in a generous helping of sauce, possibly a little too much for some people's tastes, the kitchen churns out solid food.

On a quiet Sunday afternoon, we received quick and friendly service. When we asked our server if we could have chicken subgum, which was absent from the menu, he said it wasn't a problem. Though the dish, with chicken, cashews and mixed vegetables, probably wasn’t hard to cull from ingredients used in other meals, it was a nice gesture.

Lunch came with tea and two cookies: almond and fortune. Though the latter instructed me not to “reveal my plans just yet,” and, like Homer Simpson, I don't make it a custom to defy baked goods, I'll not pass by House of Wah Sun again.

Centerstage Reviewer: Kent Green